Spider mite: how to fight on indoor plants, in a greenhouse and on seedlings

Spider mite: how to fight on indoor plants, in a greenhouse and on seedlings

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Plant pests

Spider mites (Latin Tetranychidae) - a family of arachnid arthropods of the thrombidiform order, representatives of which are found all over the world. In nature, there are 95 genera and more than 1270 species of spider mites.
The most famous member of the family is the common spider mite.


Spider mites multiply very quickly and instantly move from one plant to another. Pests feed on the contents of plant cells. The presence of mites can be detected by the appearance of white small dots on the leaves of the plant on the underside of the plate and along the thinnest cobweb. As a result of the vital activity of spider mites, part of the plant cells is destroyed, and the intensity of photosynthesis decreases.

With a strong defeat, the leaves turn white from multiple injuries, the plant is wrapped in cobwebs, and a mass of ticks accumulates on the tips of leaves and shoots.

In addition, the tick can infect the plant with incurable viral infections and gray mold spores.

At home, in the garden and garden, plants damage several types of spider mites:

  • ordinary (lat.Tetranychus urticae): the length of females of the common spider mite can be from 0.4 to 0.6 mm, males are usually shorter - from 0.3 to 0.45 mm. At the larval stage of development, ticks are transparent, colored in different colors: from pale green to greenish brown. On the sides, large dark spots are clearly visible - blind bags of the middle intestine. The tick larvae have 6 legs, and the adults have 8 translucent legs with tenacious claws. Spider mites live everywhere except Antarctica. The life cycle of an ordinary tick consists of several stages: an egg, a larva, a nymph and an adult, colored red-brown and orange (females), as well as greenish or yellowish (males). The common spider mite is a polyphage, that is, a polyphagous arthropod;
  • red (Latin Tetranychus cinnabarinus). This pest damages agricultural and ornamental plants. In warm regions, he lives in the open field, and in the northern regions - only indoors;
  • Atlantic (lat.Tetranychus atlanticus) - ubiquitous mite species that damages cucumbers;
  • Turkestan (lat.Tetranychus turkestani) - a polyphage that feeds on both garden plants (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers) and ornamental plants.

Red-footed and Savzdarga ticks are also common pests from this family. However, despite such a variety of pest species, the control measures for spider mites are almost the same.

Preventive treatment

The main reason for the appearance of spider mites on plants is dry air, so the best preventive measure is to spray the plants in dry weather. However, care must be taken to ensure that the water does not remain in the grooves and core of the plants for a long time.

You need to be especially careful in winter, because in conditions of short daylight hours and low temperatures, at which the dormancy of indoor plants proceeds, water evaporates more slowly. It makes no sense to immerse the whole plant in water for the sake of getting rid of pests: mites, when in contact with water, are protected by air bubbles covering them.

Spraying houseplants with undiluted rubbing alcohol is sometimes used to protect against spider mites, but care must be taken.

Spray with water in dry weather, both indoor and garden and garden plants. However, this procedure is effective only as a prophylaxis, but if the spider mite has already settled on the plants, you need to take completely different measures.

Fight with folk remedies

To combat spider mites, there is a wide selection of folk remedies - decoctions and infusions of plants that have insecticidal properties and are used for spraying. For example:

  • 1 kg of finely chopped dry leaves and stems of black henbane pour 10 liters of water, leave for 12 hours, strain and add 20-40 g of liquid soap;
  • 1 kg of dry or 2.5-3 kg of fresh black henbane herb, collected during the flowering period, pour a small amount of water and boil in an enamel bowl for 2-3 hours, then cool, strain and add water to a volume of 10 liters;
  • Pour 200-400 g of chopped roots or 500 g of fresh dandelion medicinal leaves in a bucket of warm water (about 40 ºC), leave for 2-3 hours, strain and use immediately: the first time when the leaves open, the second - after flowering, the third - after another 10-14 days;
  • 1 kg of crushed dry or 2 kg of fresh leaves of gray alder are poured with water and insisted for a day, after which they boil for half an hour and filter after half a day;
  • 1 kg of crushed dry or 3 kg of fresh chamomile medicinal pour 10 liters of water at a temperature of 60-70 ºC, leave for 12 hours, strain, dilute with water 2-3 times and add 10 to 40 g of liquid soap;
  • Insist 400 g of dry tobacco or makhorka in 10 liters of water for a day, then boil for 2 hours, cool, strain, add water to a volume of 10 liters and add 50 g of soap;
  • Chop 500 g of garlic, pour 3 liters of water, leave for 5 days in a warm dark place and strain. To treat plants from ticks, 60 g of the infusion is diluted in 10 liters of water and 50 g of soap is added;
  • 1200 g of fresh or 800 g of dried green potato tops are poured into 10 liters of warm water, infused for 3-4 hours and filtered;
  • 200 g of onion husks are poured into 10 liters of warm water, infused for 4-5 days, filtered and treated three times every 5 days;
  • 4 kg of chopped tomato tops are poured into 10 liters of water, boiled for half an hour over low heat and filtered. In 10 liters of water add 2-3 liters of decoction of tops and 40 g of soap.

Treatment of plants with decoctions and infusions is carried out in the evening as a preventive measure or with a small number of ticks. Try to alternate folk remedies for spider mite treatment. Soap, washing powder (4-5 g per 1 liter of water) or liquid detergent are added to the broth or infusion just before the procedure. It is better not to use folk remedies from poisonous plants at home. Keep in mind that herbal poisons are just as dangerous for humans as chemicals, so try not to exceed the dosage when preparing them.

Means and preparations for spider mites

Since ticks, spiders and scorpions are not insects, insecticides are useless against spider mites. Effective drugs for arthropod pests are acaricides (Sunmayt, Demitan, Omayt, Flumayt, Floromite, Nissoran, Bicol, Bitoksibacillin, Envidor, Apollo, Borneo) or insectoacaricides (Akarin, Agravertin, Vertimek, Kursban, Karatevitevite , Talstar, Fufanon, Oberon). All these drugs are used in strict accordance with the instructions.

Plants are treated with chemical protection against ticks several times in order to surely destroy the most resistant individuals and their eggs. At a temperature of 20 ºC, at least three treatments should be carried out with an interval of 10 days, and at a temperature of about 30 ºC, 3-4 treatments are required every 3-4 days, otherwise the females emerging from the eggs will have time to lay new eggs.

Unfortunately, among the listed drugs there are no ones that would be absolutely safe for humans, so it is better to prevent the appearance of pests. Make it a rule to regularly inspect the plants and carry out preventive spraying.

How to deal with spider mites in the garden

Spider mite on cucumbers

The presence of spider mites on cucumbers can be identified by white puncture points and light, thin cobwebs. With a strong lesion, the leaves turn white completely. Pests accumulate on the leaves and shoots of the plant. How to treat cucumbers from spider mites? You can start the fight against the pest by spraying with warm water with laundry soap dissolved in it, but before that, badly damaged leaves must be removed from the cucumbers and burned, preventing the reproduction and spread of spider mites to other plants. Cucumber bushes, which are infested with ticks, are best destroyed completely.

To create unbearable conditions for ticks, on a cloudy day, water the garden bed abundantly, then immediately cover it with a film: under the cover the air humidity will become very high, and this greatly harms the spider mite.

In case of significant damage, the cucumbers will have to be treated with acaricides. However, the appearance of ticks on a garden with cucumbers can be prevented if you change the area for culture every year, plant bushes according to a scheme developed by specialists, not thickening the planting, and in the fall remove all plant residues from the garden and dig up the soil.

Spider mite on pepper

Tetranychid ticks are the main parasites on pepper. From their punctures, a characteristic marbling is formed on the leaves. Spider mites settle on pepper seedlings and on adult plants. Over time, the puncture points merge, and the affected leaves turn brown. Moving through the plant, mites leave cobwebs on the leaves and stems. Plants heavily braided with cobwebs dry out as their photosynthesis and transpiration levels decrease. The loss of the yield of peppers with a strong spider mite infestation can reach 60%. As with other plants, dry air, dehydration of plant tissues and too high nitrogen levels in the soil are favorable conditions for the appearance of spider mites on the pepper.

The fight against spider mites on pepper is carried out in all possible ways: by removing the affected leaves, and sometimes the entire plant, by spraying with water, insecticidal infusions and decoctions in the evenings, and also, in case of strong occupation, by treating the pepper with chemicals. From folk remedies, washing plants with soapy water (a bar of laundry soap for 10 liters of water), spraying with 96% alcohol, decoction of black henbane, tobacco or infusion of garlic are effective. Of the acaricides, the most effective are Kleschevit, Apollo, Akarin, Actellik and Dicofol 20%.

Spider mite on eggplant

A spider mite that has settled on eggplants can bring a colossal loss, since it can destroy the entire crop in two weeks. And if you do not take measures to destroy it, then, having overwintered in the soil, the pest in the spring with renewed vigor will take up the destruction of the next year's harvest.

As soon as you notice discolored spots on the leaves of the eggplant, immediately start fighting the mites. By what means to do this, you decide. If there are few ticks, you can start with folk remedies that are less toxic to humans, or use a biological method: run amblyiseius or phytoseiulus, which can be purchased at garden centers, on the bed of predatory ticks. But if there are a lot of pests, do not waste time and immediately start treating eggplants with acaricides.

Spider mite on tomatoes

Having appeared on tomatoes, spider mites bite through leaf plates, as a result of which they turn yellow and dry out. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to regularly weed the beds and remove damaged leaves and shoots from the bushes. To fight the pest on tomatoes, they begin with the use of folk remedies, and it is necessary to resort to acaricides only if the processing of tomatoes with decoctions and infusions did not work.

What folk remedies help to get rid of ticks on tomatoes? Soap solution (1: 6), 2% bleach solution, rubbing alcohol, black henbane infusion. Of the chemicals, it is better to use Plant-Pin, Fitoverm, Actellik, Ethisso, Apollo, Aktaru, Antiklesch or Fufanon.

Fighting spider mites on flowers

Spider mite on roses

Spider mites are as common on flowers as they are on vegetables, but of all garden flowers, the rose pest attracts the most. Plants, depleted by improper care, first of all become victims of spider mites: white dots appear on the leaves of roses, and whitish spots appear on severe damage. Then the leaves turn yellow and fall off, a cobweb appears, and on closer examination, on the underside of the leaves, you can see small moving dots - spider mites.

Since the best fight against diseases and pests is prevention, do not forget to water the roses and carefully inspect the back of the leaves as often as possible, and at the first signs of pests, proceed to destroy them. If you miss the moment, then by the fall the number of fertile ticks can increase hundreds of times. Even the arrival of winter will not solve the problem: the mites will overwinter safely in the soil or under the leaves, and in the spring they will resume their destructive activity. Therefore, it is necessary to destroy ticks immediately and for sure, using the acaricides Neoron, Fitoverm, Aktellik and the like. When preparing solutions for treating roses, strictly follow the instructions, since the composition of acaricides includes substances hazardous to humans and pets.

Fighting spider mites in the fruit garden

Spider mite on currants

A spider mite that appears on the leaves of black, red or white currants can threaten with a complete loss of the berry harvest. If, before the appearance of the mites, the berries managed to set, they are not in danger: the mites will harm the leaves, but they will not significantly affect the quantity and quality of the crop, so you can fight them with folk remedies. With a small number of spider mites, infusions and decoctions of insecticidal plants will cope perfectly. But if there are a lot of pests and if they appeared before flowering or before the ovary ended, then the ripening of the berries may be at risk.

If ticks are found on currants before flowering, feel free to use acaricides to destroy pests. Keep in mind that white and red currants are more vulnerable than black currants. So:

  • first remove from the bush and burn absolutely all leaves damaged by the mite, then water the bushes abundantly, washing off the remaining insects with a strong stream;
  • be sure to remove the cobweb, otherwise it will turn into a water-repellent barrier;
  • a good result is given by spraying the bush with water, if immediately after this you briefly wrap the plant with a film, creating under it an eighty percent air humidity unbearable for ticks;
  • place jars of turpentine or ammonia around the bush and cover the bush with a film: turpentine and ammonia will quickly kill the ticks;
  • folk remedies will almost certainly cope with a small number of pests, but if the bush is severely affected, then, without wasting time, start treating currants with acaricides.

If you see spider mites on gooseberries, use the same means to control them as for pests on currants, since the two crops are close relatives.

Spider mite on grapes

Grapes, in addition to common spider mites, are damaged by red fruit mites and sometimes hornbeam spider mites. Newly hatched red fruit mite larvae can be seen on the underside of young grape leaves in early spring. The common spider mite first develops on weeds, and appears later on grapes. But these types of mites harm grapes in the same way: with a pointed lower jaw they penetrate the cells and absorb their contents, releasing their poisonous saliva into the leaf tissue.

With early infection of grapes with mites, its leaves practically do not grow and are deformed, often curl, acquire a light brown color and fall off prematurely.The degree of damage is influenced by the grape variety, nutrition, location of the bush and weather conditions.

Before bud break, it makes sense to treat mite-affected grapes with Nitrofen or DNOC, after removing diseased leaves and removing severely damaged bark. After the start of growth, they resort to treating the plant with Neoron, Fozalon, Akrex, Plytkran, Keltan or Rogor. If the drug has a short duration of action, you need to repeat the treatment after 10-12 days. You should be aware that spider mites are capable of developing drug resistance, therefore, when processing, alternate acaricides with various active substances.

Spider mite on strawberries

The most dangerous parasites are strawberry mites, especially since they are very difficult to spot. As a result of the activity of mites, the entire berry crop can be destroyed, and at the same time there remains the possibility that due to the disturbance of the growth of flower buds by the mites, problems with the harvest may arise in the next year. Gardeners have identified the following pattern: the older the bed with strawberries, the more harm the pest can inflict on it. Mites are most dangerous for bushes 3-4 years old.

Infection of strawberries with spider mites occurs through seedlings. Pests can get to the site from people's shoes and clothes. Population growth peaks in August and September. You can find ticks on strawberries by the following signs:

  • the bushes do not develop, small wrinkled leaves with anomalous figured edges appear on them;
  • a silvery film forms on the underside of the leaves;
  • leaves become yellowish;
  • berries do not develop and dry;
  • in winter the plantation freezes over.

When starting to fight ticks on strawberries, you should know that they concentrate in difficult places to process, so it will not be possible to completely destroy them. But in order to restrain the development of the population and save the harvest, it is necessary to fight spider mites. The best way to kill a pest is to run predator mites on the site. Biological enemies of ticks can greatly reduce their numbers. After harvesting, you can cover the bushes with plastic wrap, preventing air from entering under it. When the temperature under the film rises to 60 ºC, remove it and cut the affected bushes under the root, then cover the garden with humus. You can also use folk remedies, for example, spraying with onion or garlic infusion: once at the very beginning of the growing season and twice after harvesting, each time after processing, covering the strawberries with a film for several hours.

Spider mite on an apple tree

With a strong occupation by spider mites, an apple tree can lose up to half of its leaves by mid-summer. As a result, its yield is significantly reduced. Therefore, as soon as you notice the presence of pests on the tree, proceed with a decisive fight against them. Of the folk remedies, the most effective is the tobacco solution, with which the apple tree is treated twice with an interval of a week. In advanced cases, you will have to spray the apple tree with Nitrofen or Decis twice: after the appearance of ovaries and a month before harvesting. In the fall, you need to remove all fallen leaves and fruits from under the tree, cut out old and diseased branches in which ticks can hibernate, and burn all these plant residues.

Spider mite in greenhouses

Spider mite on seedlings

A spider mite in a greenhouse with cucumbers and other plants can give up to 20 generations of pests in one year. Spider mites enter the greenhouse and spread through it in search of the best conditions and the most suitable crop. Most often, their victims are cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants, and even in the seedling stage. Along the main leaf vein of the leaves, tiny, like pin pricks, yellowish dots appear, which eventually become colorless, and then a thinnest web appears, along which ticks easily move. Pests concentrate in the upper part of the plant, sucking the cell sap from the leaves, settling on their lower side.

To reduce the risk of spider mites appearing on seedlings in a greenhouse, you should alternate seedlings when planting: cucumber seedlings with tomatoes, cabbage or leafy vegetables. Inspect the seedlings as often as possible, and as soon as you find ticks, remove and burn the damaged leaves, and in case of significant damage, treat the seedlings with Bitoxibacillin, Fitoverm or colloidal sulfur, and if these drugs do not help, apply a broad-spectrum acaricide solution - Actellic, for example. The sooner you take action, the more chances you have to save the seedlings.

Spider mite on adult plants

It is impossible to expel spider mites from the greenhouse with ultraviolet rays, infusions and decoctions of plants or spraying with water. To save the crop, you will have to use acaricides, treating the plants with their solutions every two weeks until the pest is completely defeated. With a small number of spider mites in the greenhouse, you can try to cope with them with the help of their biological enemies - predator mites. There will be no harm to vegetable plants from phytoseiulus: as soon as there are no spider mites left in the greenhouse, it will die of hunger. If you have to use acaricides, strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and safety rules for working with toxic drugs in closed rooms.

As a preventive measure, at the beginning of winter, it is advisable to fumigate the greenhouse with sulfur in order to destroy the ticks that have gathered to overwinter in the greenhouse. Instead of sulfur, you can spray the greenhouse with a solution of slaked lime, and heat the supporting metal risers with a gas burner. During the period of planting vegetables, maintain high air humidity in the greenhouse through timely watering and frequent spraying of plants with water. Increases resistance to pests and diseases by weekly two-minute ultraviolet irradiation of the greenhouse.

Spider mite on indoor plants

Spider mite on an orchid

To protect orchids from spider mites, you need to create conditions for them that are as close to natural as possible. And even if you succeed, you need to monitor the condition of the flowers all the time, because the sooner you are able to detect pests, the easier and faster you will get rid of them. The optimal living conditions for ticks are air humidity of 30-40% at a temperature of about 27 ºC.

A red tick most often settles on an orchid, which is called false because it does not weave a web. This makes it harder to spot. He can get into the room with a new plant or with a bouquet of flowers. After tick bites, a silvery sheen appears on the orchid leaf, then the leaf turns yellow and falls off. You can find out if there are ticks on the orchid by putting a piece of apple on the substrate: after a while, all the pests will gather on it.

Every new flower must be inspected before being brought home. To prevent the spread of mites, wash your orchids regularly in a (relatively) hot shower. Orchids with tough leaves, such as Cattleya, can be wiped down with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, but test the alcohol on a small area of ​​the old leaf first.

Since folk remedies are far from always effective, and you do not have to eat orchids, it makes sense, without wasting time, to treat mite-affected plants with acaricides.

Spider mite on lemon

You can determine that spider mites have gotten on your indoor lemon by the appearance of yellow dots on its leaves and yellowing of their tips. If you put a white leaf in a pot and shake the plant, and then examine the leaf under a magnifying glass, you can see mites. At a later stage, a thin spider web may appear on the lemon. The tick is dangerous for the lemon tree not only in itself, but also as a carrier of viral diseases, for which, alas, no medicine has yet been invented. That is why, at the first signs of the presence of spider mites, action must be taken immediately.

After protecting the soil in the pot with a plastic bag, rinse the crown of the tree with soapy fifty-degree water. As a result of the water procedure, the mites on the lemon will be significantly less. You can protect lemon and other indoor plants from spider mites by placing a pot of geraniums next to them, which repels these pests. Helps protect lemon from mites rosemary oil, the scent of which pests cannot stand: dilute a few drops of oil in warm water and spray the lemon. Frequent but short-term exposure to ultraviolet rays repels ticks and strengthens plant immunity. To do this, you need to turn on the lamp for a couple of minutes every day.

But if, as a result of all these attempts to get rid of ticks, you completely failed, treat the plant with an acaricidal preparation: Fitoverm, Aktellik or Demitan. The last drug, which has a period of action of 45-60 days, is especially effective against ticks on lemon. However, Demitan is toxic to fish, so you need to process lemon as far as possible from the room with the aquarium. In addition, the drug is addictive and can only be used once. For subsequent treatments, which are carried out several times every 7-10 days, you will have to purchase other acaricides.


  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Plant Pest Information

Sections: Pests Houseplant pests

Spider mite on tomatoes

In recent years, this microscopic insect has become a real nightmare for gardeners and gardeners. Every year, spider mites destroy a significant part of the crop, and sometimes completely destroy plants. Scientists associate the increase in the population of these harmful insects with global climate changes.

Winters in mid-latitudes have become much milder, which favors the survival of more females. Another factor that complicates the fight against the pest is associated with its size: the body of an adult female reaches 1 millimeter in length, and males are even smaller.

There are several thousand species of spider mites around the world, several hundred of them live in mid-latitudes. Insects are bright scarlet, (Photo) greenish or brown in color and, as a rule, lead a secretive lifestyle. The tick's legs are equipped with special suction cups, with which it is firmly fixed on tomatoes or other crops, then pierces the leaves and begins to suck out the juice from the plant.

In its development from egg to adult, the spider mite goes through several stages. The life cycle of the male does not last long: 3-4 weeks, the female lives in diapause for several months, and the eggs of the parasite, under favorable conditions, remain viable for several years.

Folk remedies

To treat peppers from aphids and ticks, as well as seedlings of tomatoes, eggplant, melon, cucumbers, watermelon, you can use folk remedies. The main advantage of the method is safety, ease of use, and availability. Preparations prepared at home do not affect the vegetation of the plant, save from spider mites and larvae.

The disadvantage is low efficiency in case of mass infection, the frequency of procedures is every 3-5 days, until the plant grows stronger. Fighting with folk remedies is allowed in a greenhouse, outdoors.

How to deal with spider mites on seedlings:

  • Soap solution. Natural laundry soap is used. Rub it on a coarse grater, fill it with warm water. Stir until complete dissolution, add cold water. Spray the plant, paying special attention to the lower part of the leaf. Use a garden spray bottle or spray bottle. The soap creates a protective film on the leaves, when it hits the body of a pest, it sticks its legs together and makes it difficult to move. The procedure is repeated every 3 days if there are signs of infection, once a week for prophylaxis.
  • Alcohol, vodka. Methods for dealing with spider mites on seedlings suggest using a drink with a high alcohol content or medical alcohol itself. The tool burns the chitinous cover, scares off with a pungent odor. Pour into a spray bottle, process leaves, stems. The procedure should be carried out twice a week.
  • Cola, Pepsi. A modern folk method of combating parasites on seedlings of peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, and other early crops. Suitable for small beds, as it is expensive for large gardens. Leave the bottle open to eliminate bubbles, or pour it into a basin to speed up the process. Spray seedlings, especially the leaves on the back. One of the most effective remedies for spider mites. Kills parasites in one go. Repeat for prophylaxis 1 time in 7 days, while there is a threat of infection.
  • Spice. Mix in equal proportions red, black pepper, cinnamon, mustard, add garlic tincture. Pour the product into a spray bottle, process the seedlings. The procedure must be repeated every 3 days. Garlic tincture cooks very quickly. Pour the chopped vegetable with cold water, insist for a day.

To fight spider mites or prevent infection, you need to regularly spray the seedlings with water. The pest does not tolerate moisture. Loosen the soil regularly, since the eggs are in the ground, eliminate weeds.


Last year, a spider mite appeared on a pepper. The seedlings stopped growing, all the leaves were enveloped in cobwebs. I bought a bottle of cola at the grocery store. I sprayed the plant thoroughly. The next day I did not find a single new cobweb, from that moment the peppers began to grow fully. This same remedy is great for aphids. If you are puzzling over how to get rid of spider mites from pepper seedlings or other early crops, buy a soda drink. It helps very quickly.

Marina, Moscow

Varieties of spider mites

Although in nature there are more than 1300 species of ticks, however, there are the most common representatives:

  • Ordinary. Destroys almost all indoor, decorative and plants growing in greenhouses and open ground. Ticks live in colonies, most often located on the inside of the leaf. However, they gradually migrate to the shoots, namely to their apical parts. First, typical dots and spots of yellow color appear on the leaves. A white thin web forms between the stems and leaves. The color of the tick is red-pink. The plant is destroyed not only by adults, but even by their larvae. They can move from a damaged plant to a healthy plant, so gradually destroying all plantings.
  • Atlantic. It has a yellow-green color. It can settle on any part of the plant. Unlike other species, the Atlantic spider mite is not afraid of even high humidity. It affects citrus fruits and domestic palms.
  • False. Has a length of up to 0.3 mm. It comes in all shades from red to green. Doesn't weave a web. If the ticks become visible, then the lesion is already huge.
  • The red spider mite settles on indoor flowers. The pest is afraid of cold water and high humidity. The higher the temperature, the faster the reproduction process takes place.
  • Cyclamen. The very name of the arthropod speaks about itself, since its main delicacy is cyclamen. But it also occurs on other plants.
  • Gallic view of an elongated shape, up to 0.3 mm long. The color ranges from rusty brown to white. After the mites suck out the contents of the cells, galls (abnormal growth of cells) are formed on the shoots and leaves, reaching a diameter of 1–2.5 cm. Ticks live and multiply inside the galls. This type of pest is spread with planting material, water for irrigation and with the help of insects and wind.Gall mites are not afraid of even viral diseases.
  • Wide spider mite. The arthropod is invisible when viewed with the naked eye. His actions lead to distortion of the shape of flowers, buds and leaves. It settles on the underside of leaves. It reproduces actively. In hot summers, a new army of arthropods hatch every 4–5 days. After a short amount of time, brown-red dust with cobwebs is formed on the affected plants and flowers. Colloidal sulfur preparations, as well as celtan, can be used to destroy pests. A flat or wide mite does not weave a web.
  • Briobia mites live on ornamental plants growing in an enclosed space. Yellowish and white streaks are clear evidence of plant damage. The mite lays rather large eggs along the veins of the leaves; they have a bright orange color.
  • The clover mite settles mainly on bulbous flowers. On a plant affected by a clover mite, tunnels are noticeable, which are filled with brown dust.
  • Root bulbous spider mite. The pest is visible when inspecting a cultivated or ornamental plant. Lays eggs in the moves. At one time, the female can lay approximately 300 eggs. Gradually, the pest eats up the inside of the bulb, as a result of which it turns into dust.

All types of these pests survive even under adverse conditions, so control measures must be severe. Spider mite females can hide by burying themselves in the ground, or by burying in secluded places, for example, under fallen leaves or in the crevices of pots. After that, they go into diapause or hibernation. After that, they leave the sleep phase and continue their normal life activities.

In the fight against spider mites, you must strive to win

When you fight for your own, you can't make out the means, you don't "turn on" your head. So it turns out in the end that either the ticks survived, or the plants, along with the parasites, died in the Bose... Therefore, first of all, the principle should act in the struggle - do not harm yourself. Logically speaking, you can get rid of a spider mite in the following ways:

  • Strangle. That is, cut off oxygen for them. Create a protective film on the plants for some time. The method is suitable if the spider mite has just started up on indoor plants, but has not yet spread. It will not work outdoors for obvious reasons.
  • Poison... Treat the plant with acaricides. And different. Pests quickly develop drug resistance, which only increases in subsequent generations.
  • Scare. Use folk remedies. If the tick has already spread in large numbers, they are unlikely to help. But as a means of prevention, some of them are even very good.

There is another way for parasites to survive from their own territory. The most environmentally friendly and least laborious is to set their natural enemies - entomophages on ticks... You can buy phytoseiulus with abluseius on the Internet, but it is better to contact the nearest greenhouse complex. There they are definitely there. And at the same time to consult about the rates of release of predators.

Folk remedies

There are a lot of popular ways to combat a tick. Below are the most effective and easiest to prepare.

  1. Black henbane decoction. Take 1 kg of dried and chopped henbane leaves and pour 10 liters of boiling water. Let stand for 12 hours, strain and add 40 g of liquid laundry soap. The soap is added so that the solution stays on the leaves and does not roll off immediately.
  2. A decoction of medicinal dandelion. For 10 liters of hot water, take 500 g of fresh leaves or 300 g of dry roots. The broth should stand for a day, after which it must be filtered and the plants can be watered.
  3. A decoction of field chamomile. Take 1 kg of dry chamomile per 10 liters of hot water. Let it brew for 12 hours. After that, strain, dilute with water, add 40 g soap and you can start processing.
  4. Garlic solution. Take 30 g of garlic in a bucket of water. The solution is infused for about a day in a dark place. Laundry soap can be added.
  5. Onion infusion is also effective against ticks. Take 200 g of fresh husk and fill it with warm water. The broth is placed for 12 hours, then filtered and applied as directed on the affected plants.
  6. Hot peppers. Take 50 g of red hot pepper in 500 ml of water. Spray the leaves.
  7. Hydrogen peroxide 3% is used in a proportion of 20 ml per 1 liter of separated water. Hydrogen peroxide does the best job of dealing with mites. Safe for humans, there is no smell and the effect appears immediately.
  8. You can use a vinegar-based solution. Vinegar is harmful to mites.

Fight the parasite consistently and methodically. In the absence of systemic spraying, the pest becomes resistant to toxic substances, continues to multiply and destroy flowers.

The general rules of treatment are as follows:

  • If ticks are found, all plants on the windowsill should be sprayed, and in case of severe infection, throughout the house.
  • Affected and dry leaf plates must be removed and disposed of.
  • Carry out water procedures for indoor flowers under the shower, the permissible water temperature is + 40 ... + 48 ° C. For those specimens for whom water is contraindicated, a steam bath is suitable. In the bathroom, open the hot tap, and, on the contrary, close the door, leaving the pots for at least 15-20 minutes. These steps should be repeated every 3-5 days.
  • Disinfect the pallets with boiling water.
  • Process the leaves and water the soil with the selected preparation in accordance with the instructions.
  • Increase the concentration of the poison by putting on and tying a plastic bag around the infected specimen, not forgetting to remove the container from a sunny place.
  • Thoroughly wipe the surface of the pot, window, sill, frame and glass with alcohol.
  • To destroy parasites, repeat the treatments 2 times after 6 days, and also change the drug or use additional folk remedies.

First aid measures depend on the degree of tick infestation. If there are few individuals, you can remove them mechanically: wipe the leaves with a cloth soaked in hot water with the addition of soap. With a small number of adult parasites and their larvae, treatment with decoctions of plants, vegetables and flowers with strong aromas will help. With sufficient damage, it is better to use biological products, and if a cobweb appears and the green crown begins to crumble, a chemical agent is needed.

After defeating the tick, the plant should be transplanted into a new container, completely replacing the substrate, and the root system should be treated with protective biological products.


When using drugs of this group, it is important to strictly observe the dosage and the number of treatments in accordance with the attached instructions. Tick-killing chemicals are divided into two groups:

  • insectoacaricides
  • acaricides.

For effective treatment with a pest, you should alternate funds with different components in the composition. Many products stop performing their function after reprocessing.

If you need to use chemicals, you must follow a number of simple but important rules:

  • During use, wear long sleeves, gloves and a hat to protect skin and hair. The best place for spraying chemicals is a balcony, loggia.
  • For indoor flowers, choose products with a 3-4 class of toxicity. Highly toxic substances are only suitable for outdoor plants.
  • In case of a serious infection, it is necessary to carry out not one, but 4 treatments with an interval of 5-7 days.

Examples of chemicals and their use are presented in the table:


Imago... Only fertilized females experience unfavorable winter conditions. Wintering sites - plant remains, peeling bark of trees.

In spring, when the temperature rises to 12–14 ° C, females leave their winter shelters and settle on the underside of leaf blades. Soon, the females begin to weave a thick web of thin, silky threads and lay eggs in it, which are located in the web one by one. For 15–20 days, the female lays up to 150 eggs.

In the spring generation, all eggs are fertilized. In summer generations, females can lay unfertilized eggs. Only males develop from them, while individuals of both sexes develop from fertilized ones. [2]

In preparation for winter, females change color from grayish-green to orange-red, stop feeding and reproduce, and acquire increased resistance to low temperatures. So, summer females die already at 0 ° C, and winter females are able to survive temperatures down to –27-28 ° C. [2]

Egg... The duration of embryo development depends on the air temperature. [2]

Larva develops within 8–20 days, depending on the ambient temperature. Like adults, the larvae feed on the sap of green shoots, leaves and fruits. [6]

Imago... It takes 8 to 20 or more days to complete the full cycle from egg to imago. The first generations develop on weeds (nettle, plantain, field bindweed, swan). By the middle of summer, the tick migrates to fruit trees and multiplies on them until autumn. By the beginning of August (Leningrad) or in September (Central Asia), diapausing (winter) females appear in the colonies. The appearance of winter females is observed with a decrease in daylight hours to 16 hours. With a daylight hours of 14 hours or less, only winter females develop. [2]

Development features... The number of generations depends on the climate of the distribution area. In the Leningrad region, the development of 8-10 generations is observed, in the Crimea - 12, in Central Asia - 14-18. The generations are layered on each other, and during the entire growing season, all stages of tick development are observed simultaneously. The fastest development and reproduction of a tick occurs at a temperature of 29–31 ° C and a relative humidity of 35–55%. [2]

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